Preservationist Tour Guide: A Weekend in Rochester
The City of Rochester developed along the Genesee River on the ancestral homelands of the Seneca Nation. The third largest city in New York State — behind New York City and Buffalo — Rochester first rose to prominence in the early 1800s thanks to its presence along the Erie Canal and the manufacturing that sprang up around it. First known as the Flour City and later as the Flower City, Rochester was once a leading producer of both processed flour and expansive nurseries that encircled the city.
A lot has changed since Rochester’s heyday of flour production, but upon a recent visit, I am happy to report that the Flower City moniker is still very well deserved. Earlier this year, the League included Rochester’s Genesee Valley Park on our biennial Seven to Save list. There is a stretch of mature woodland that provides an intentional buffer between the park and the busy city beyond its border. This woodland is integral to the historic design of the park — a design by the “father of landscape architecture” Frederick Law Olmsted. Unfortunately, this stretch is owned by its neighbor, the University of Rochester. And until the University commits to preserving the parkland into perpetuity, it remains at risk. We made the trip to Rochester to visit GVP back in May, but took some time to explore even more of the city while we had the chance. If you feel like spending a few days in Rochester too, here is a suggested weekend itinerary to give you some inspiration.
Friday
The Little Theatre seen at night, with its restored neon sign glowing in red and green. Photo credit: Bero Architecture
There are plenty of hotels to choose from Downtown, but might we suggest a historic house turned bed and breakfast? Dartmouth House in the Park Avenue neighborhood is a very good option.
Once you’re settled you can explore the neighborhood, which is chockful of beautiful historic homes and boasts many shops and restaurants along the main drag of Park Avenue. Pick a place for dinner and make sure to get ice cream at Pittsford Farms Dairy afterward! Finish the night with a movie at the Little Theatre. The 1929 Art Deco theatre recently underwent an extensive restoration, and it’s worth a visit just to admire the building.
Saturday
A view of the Broad Street Aqueduct — Rochester’s abandoned subway over the Genesee River. Graffiti can be seen covering the tunnel’s arches.
Do as the locals do and head first thing to the City of Rochester Public Market. Operating since 1905, you can browse over 300 vendors on its busiest days. Bonus: the Public Market puts you in close proximity to a large concentration of Wall\Therapy murals — but if you’re looking, you’ll see them throughout the city. With snacks in hand, spend the rest of your morning enjoying one of Rochester’s beautiful green spaces. If you’re there in the spring, Highland Park will be full of colorful blooms, including their famous lilacs. Genesee Valley Park provides river access and connects to the Empire State Trail. At Mount Hope Cemetery (2006 Preserve New York grantee), you can enjoy the Victorian landscape and pay your respects to both Frederick Douglass and Susan B. Anthony.
Speaking of Susan B., you can learn more about her life, work, and legacy by visiting the National Susan B. Anthony Museum & House. The Susan B. Anthony neighborhood (listed as a Seven to Save back in 2001) is also home to Nick Tahou Hots, if a garbage plate is on your bucket list. From there, head north through the Maplewood Historic District to peruse the wares at ReHouse Architectural Salvage. We love a salvage shop, don’t you?
Finish the day admiring Rochester’s vistas. The Pont de Rennes pedestrian bridge gives you a great view of High Falls, a waterfall right in the middle of downtown. Head a few blocks south to Broad Street and you’ll get another river view, this time with the added benefit of Rochester’s abandoned subway. Although not fully accessible, you can still sneak a peek to admire the graffiti of adventurous artists who have made their mark over the years. This section of town is also home to some truly beautiful architecture, including the Times Square Building (corner of Exchange Blvd. & W. Broad St.) and the Powers Building (corner of Exchange Blvd. & W. Main St.).
Sunday
A mural on the outside of Ugly Duck Coffee reading “Til we meet again.”
A strong recommendation to grab coffee at Ugly Duck Coffee.
Another strong recommendation to spend time at the Eastman Museum. The home of photography pioneer and Kodak founder George Eastman, visitors to his Colonial Revival mansion will see exhibits on photography and film, as well as the preserved home with original furnishings, artifacts, and careful reproductions, all surrounded by beautiful historic gardens.
Honorable Mentions
For all you lighthouse aficionados, head north to visit the Charlotte-Genesee Lighthouse, America’s oldest surviving lighthouse on Lake Ontario. The League awarded the Charlotte-Genesee Lighthouse Historical Society a Preserve New York grant in 2021.
You won’t be able to get inside, but if you are a big Frank Lloyd Wright fan, make pitstop to admire the Edward Boynton House on East Blvd.
Enjoy a performance at the Eastman School of Music’s Eastman Theater, one of our 2012 Excellence in Historic Preservation Award winners.
If you have kids (or even if you don’t), the Strong Museum of Play would be a very good place to spend a day.